Mandalay and the Irrawady. Two names that are essential in the understanding of Myanmar. One was the ancient capital and the most important religious centre in the country and the other is the river that shaped the country’s history, settlement patterns, and economic development for centuries. When I went to Myanmar in 2000 to look at designing a biking itinerary, I had done a lot of research and knew that Mandalay should be a stop based on it’s historical importance. Kipling had written a poem in 1890, the last king of Myanmar had been sent out on exile to India from his palace in Mandalay, the city has to this day hundreds of monasteries, even Frank Sinatra made a song about the city. And yes, Mandalay did not disappoint. More on it in future posts…..

What I was not prepared for was the Irrawaddy.

 As early as the 6th century, early settlers arrived from the China-Tibet border area using the river as a means of transport. Later on the Burmese tribe gained control over the Irrawaddy and Sittang river valleys and built trade routes between India and China. From the 13th century onwards, Shan, Mongols, Myanmar armies, the French and the British fought and gained control of Myanmar and the shipping rights on the Irrawaddy. Whoever had control of the river had control of the country. 

I clearly remember the first morning I arrived on the shores of the river, I had been staying at the only decent hotel in town, the Sedona (which was to become my “home away from home” for many years when I came to the city guiding groups). I was accompanied by local guides and the manager of a ground operator and, as I was looking for good biking routes, they suggested we go to the riverfront. This was my first time seeing the famous river. Stepping out of the car and walking to the viewing point was a sight I would never forget. Dozens of ships tied side by side, hugging the shore line, the loading and unloading of all sorts of goods and crops. Pigs, bags of rice, vegetables, bags of cement, dredging for sand, cane sugar in drums, you name it. Large floats of bamboo hitched up to each other as floating rafts wait for their turn to be tied onto the boats and sent down river. Clay pots, teak and hundreds of people getting on and off ferries going up and down river. This was perfect. We found a great bike ride that started from the river following the coast and for many years, I took our travelers to witness this very cool snap shot of Myanmar, knowing that for centuries, this spectacle changed very little in form. Local crafts, boats, ships, cargo barges, tourist river cruises, bamboo and large teak log rafts all competed for their place on the river. The Irrawaddy rises up to 11 meters during the monsoon season and the very few bridges were designed to span up to several kilometres wide to cope with this seasonal deluge arriving each year with the rains. The whole riverfront is also home to many who make a living loading and unloading. Washing is done on the stone banks and everywhere long lines of workers, men, women, children, move goods up and down the banks.  To me, this exemplified what this country was all about, that despite all the adversity and the economic embargo, there was still a way to survive, make do and trade.

Thanks to a river who was indeed the lifeblood of the country.

LITTLE KNOWN FACT:

Myanmar is the largest country in South East Asia

BEST MONTH TO VISIT:

Between November and February

Longitude 80 will offer a private Myanmar expedition including a private 2 night cruise and a 3 night coastal retreat in one of the country’s most isolated areas in the future.Due to the political situation in Myanmar, we have decided to postpone any itineraries until we feel it is safe to travel.